View Full Version : table saw ducting
03-30-2010, 10:38 AM
OK, I'm getting ready to install my ducting on my CV1800 and there are a few things I'm not sure about. I am using 6" PVC and I think it is correct that 2, 4 inch lines move almost identical amounts of air as one 6" and that this amount of air is desirable. So, if I am using a 4" at a machine should I have another 4' open to provide the best collection? Like where I have two benchtop machines next to each other, should I run the 6" to just before the machines and then have a 6x4x4 wye, 4" to each machine but one blast gate in the 6' pipe so it is not restricted?
Also at the cabinet saw---Are two 4 inch lines, one to top and one to the guard the best setup and get all the dust from the cabinet? I assume that a 6' to the cabinet and 4 inch to the guard would be more air than it can move efficiently. I guess this would apply to the band saw or any machine where you wanted 2 pickups
It's not necessary to open a second 4" line if you are running a machine with just one 4" pickup. Several of my machines (6" jointer, belt sander, 13" planer, CNC router) have a single 4" line and they work fine. The system will maintain the transport velocity in the 6" line (to prevent settling) with a 4" line feeing it.
As for the Cabinet saw, I would just run 2 - 4" lines. The sysem will handle a 6" & 4" line open at the same time but you probably won't move any more air through the 6" line on the bottom because the cabinet would restrict the air flow anyway. If the cabinet was completely sealed then you wouldn't move any air. You can only have as much air flow as the openings in the cabinet will allow. Putting a 6" line on the cabinet won't move any more air.
03-31-2010, 07:38 PM
Putting a 6" line on the cabinet won't move any more air.
No, but it makes me feel much better!!! :D I do have 6" to both of my table saws, and a 4" to the overhead guard on the new cabinet saw. It works very well. But Ed is right, you will only get as much flow through the TS hook up as you have open holes in the saw. So many people want to close up every open space on a machine, and it is counter productive. Jim.
04-13-2010, 11:25 AM
I am picking up a Grizzly 1023 TS today. Retiring the contractor saw after 12 years of service. Has anyone modified this TS to connect the ductwork and if so, what was the benefit?
04-13-2010, 09:27 PM
IIRC it has a 4" port at the back. Not sure if it is on a door that pulls off like my G0691 or not, but it will have a hook up already there. Jim.
04-13-2010, 09:37 PM
We got it through the 36" door to my basement shop but had to take the top off. Just spent the last couple of hours going through the alignment. The 4" port is on the motor door right hand side. Of course my duct was to come down the right hand side. I really didn't want to make a 180 degree bend but don't see any other way. Any thoughts???
04-14-2010, 09:20 AM
So many people want to close up every open space on a machine, and it is counter productive. Jim.
On that note, I usually prop open the lower door on my bandsaw. Of all my machines, it sounds particularly starved for air with the door closed.
04-14-2010, 09:34 PM
E, I'm guessing you meant the duct is on the left side of the saw? I was thinking the back side, but maybe that is the older style Uni. If on the left, no I don't see any way around doing a 180 with the pipe. Just use 45s with a short piece of straight between each and it will be ok. That was one of the big selling points to me when Grizzly came out with the G0691 in that the port is on a separate door on the right side of the saw. 314 315
J, my BS sounds starved too, but it won't run with the door open (micro switches on both doors) but it seems to collect just fine. My bigger problem is the space between the bottom of the table and the top of the lower cabinet. Some does escape there. Jim.
04-14-2010, 11:01 PM
You're right, the port is on the left. After 10PM there's not much left so pardon the error. Thanks for the pix though. There is a piece of steel in the bottom that is angle towards the port on the "left", acts as a chute. I was thinking of bringing my duct in on the right side. I checked the clearance moving the motor up and down and at all angles and I can still get a tilted piece of sheet metal above the existing piece to direct the dust to the right port. Any thoughts?
04-15-2010, 07:29 PM
I have a Grizzly G1023SLX that I decided needed a 6" port and I didn't like the location of the 4" port under the motor enclosure either. My ductwork comes through the floor behind my saw, so I decided to cut a hole just above the interior ramp for a shopmade port. Here is a thread (http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/Bullentin/showthread.php?t=852&highlight=blast) where I described making them. Hope this helps.
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