Components for cyclone control box

[SoCaAl]

I'm just finishing the insulation and drywall in my garage in preparation for install my new Clearvue Cyclone. Before I hang the last sheet of drywall, I'd like to make sure to get all the wiring done.

My plan is to have a control box for the cyclone that is set up as follows:

Hand/Off/Auto switch with key to turn the unit on and off
Circuit sensor to sense current instead of a remote control or micro switches at each blast gate
I have a CV 1800 that's just crying to be installed and get to work. The cyclone is on it's own circuit, 220v with a 30amp breaker. I have found a wealth of infomation on this and some other sites, but since I'm not an electrican I haven't been able to piece it all together. The wiring will be done by a licensed electrican, but at $65.00 an hour I don't want to pay him to be a parts runner.

What components do I need to make the above plan work?

Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Al

[Jim O'Dell]

I'm not understanding the hand/off/auto switch. Off is understandable, but what are the hand and auto positions supposed to do? A little more detail and I bet we can get a list for you.
My control box is 220 in, 220 out to motor, a contactor relay, and 110 extension plugged into a receptacle that is controlled on/off by a light switch. This turns the system on/off. Let us know! Jim.

[McRabbet]

I'm just finishing the insulation and drywall in my garage in preparation for install my new Clearvue Cyclone. Before I hang the last sheet of drywall, I'd like to make sure to get all the wiring done.


My plan is to have a control box for the cyclone that is set up as follows:

Hand/Off/Auto switch with key to turn the unit on and off
Circuit sensor to sense current instead of a remote control or micro switches at each blast gate
I have a CV 1800 that's just crying to be installed and get to work. The cyclone is on it's own circuit, 220v with a 30amp breaker. I have found a wealth of infomation on this and some other sites, but since I'm not an electrican I haven't been able to piece it all together. The wiring will be done by a licensed electrican, but at $65.00 an hour I don't want to pay him to be a parts runner.

What components do I need to make the above plan work?

Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Al
Personally, I would advise against using current sensors and/or gate switches to turn your cyclone on and off. If you are like most woodworkers I know, including myself, I tend to turn my tablesaw on and off frequently, and my jointer and planer at least after each board or set of boards is run. The 5 HP motor on your cyclone will overheat easily if it is turned on and off every few minutes because it needs to spin up that heavy steel impeller each time. I use a decent quality remote control unit (e.g., the Shop Fox unit shown here (http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/E8FB5A1C/mac/additmdtl.mac/showItemDetail?item=WK30380&qtyA=0&phsO=N&desc=110V%20REMOTE%20DUST%20COLLECTOR%20SWITCH&drpshp=N&alOrd=Y&iQty=.000&oQty=.000&initQty=1&assortParent=N&itemForSale=Y&styleName=&fixD=&face=.00&gftc=&stck=Y&prefS=&calledFrom=DS&ordInfo1=&ordInfo2=&ordInfo3=&ordMan1=N&ordMan2=N&ordMan3=N&persCode=&persReqd=&persLink= &shipRemaining=0&daysBetween=0&daysBetweenFix=0&monthsBetween=0) for under $50) that allows me to supply 120 Volts to the H230B Contactor relay that most ClearVue owners use. I let my cyclone run until I know I am finished for at least 10-15 minutes that allows the motor to cool down.

I go one step further and have a low voltage bin sensor connected to the remote controlled 120 V power in the Cyclone control circuit that will shut the cyclone down when the bin fills to protect from bin overflow and clogging the expensive filters downstream of the blower.

In old threads here, I posted a bin sensor design that many CV owners have used, but since many parts for it are no longer available, I now build and sell an electronic model that uses Genie Garage Door Safety sensors mounted each side of the flex above the bin to detect blockage. The unit is equipped with either a bright strobe lamp or a combined Audio/Visual unit to alert the user when the flex is blocked and an internal relay will shut the power off to the Cyclone control box. They operate on a small 12 Volt DC power supply.

Here are a few pictures (from Left: Audio/Visual Alarm with Bin Sensor Control Unit and a pair of sensors; The Visual Strobe model; Contents of an Audio/Visual system ready to ship; pair of sensors pointing through flex on a ClearVue bin lid), and a PDF file with basic design -- if you or others are interested, feel free to contact me by PM or email. There are four ClearVue Owners that have them installed in the past six months and they all report very positive results.

[SoCaAl]

The "hand" position acts as a manual "on". The "auto" position would allow the dust collector to be turned on through the circuit sensor. I believe the circuit sensor would be connected to a contactor that would supply power to the DC once a machine was turned on. McRabbet suggested using a remote control, so in that case the remote box would replace the circuit sensor.
Thanks for the replys.

[McRabbet]

... I believe the circuit sensor would be connected to a contactor that would supply power to the DC once a machine was turned on. McRabbet suggested using a remote control, so in that case the remote box would replace the circuit sensor.
Thanks for the replys.
SoCaAl,

Here are two pictures of a mock-up of a Dust Collector control box that shows how I connect incoming 120 VAC from a remote control outlet (one from Ace Hardware (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290269)that is about $25). I used a 14 ga. cord to bring the power into a 6" x 6" x 4" enclosure that holds an H230B 240 V contactor used with more ClearVue Cyclones. The orange wires show typical 240 V connections to the H230B and the copper ground is passed through to the cyclone motor. The "hot" lead of the yellow lamp cord is connected to the black conductor in an incoming 14/2 NM cable that goes to my bin sensor box and the return wire (white with a piece of black tape to indicate it is hot) passed to one of the coil leads on the H230B. The neutral side of the yellow cord is attached to the other coil lead on the H230B. I hope this helps.

[pepster]

My electrician will be wiring up the box in a few days and I'm trying to understand the electrical wiring with a remote setup.

I understand the wiring description with regards to the "hot lead" connecting to the incoming of the bin sensor. However, suppose I don't have a bin sensor. Where does that "hot lead" connect to?

[McRabbet]

If you do not have a bin sensor, then the incoming pair of wires from the remote connect to each side of the H230B relay. In the close-up picture of my mockup in Post #5 above, first remove the wire entering at the right (NM Cable) and then eliminate the blue connector that joins the yellow wire to the black wire of the NM cable and instead connect it using a 1/4" female quick disconnect to the coil. Your remote wire will now energize the coil on the contactor and start the Blower motor on the ClearVue.

[krpinney]

I'm just finishing the insulation and drywall in my garage in preparation for install my new Clearvue Cyclone. Before I hang the last sheet of drywall, I'd like to make sure to get all the wiring done.



My plan is to have a control box for the cyclone that is set up as follows:

Hand/Off/Auto switch with key to turn the unit on and off
Circuit sensor to sense current instead of a remote control or micro switches at each blast gate
I have a CV 1800 that's just crying to be installed and get to work. The cyclone is on it's own circuit, 220v with a 30amp breaker. I have found a wealth of infomation on this and some other sites, but since I'm not an electrican I haven't been able to piece it all together. The wiring will be done by a licensed electrican, but at $65.00 an hour I don't want to pay him to be a parts runner.

What components do I need to make the above plan work?

Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Al

SoCalAl,

Did you complete your install of your CV 1800 with the Hand/Off/Auto switch? I'm interested in this approach so I can manually switch the CV on or switch to Auto and have a Remote control the collector. I could do the same with multiple switches, but this seems cleaner. Did you put in a bin sensor? Do you have any photos of your wiring?

Thanks,

Keith

[Steve P]

SoCalAl,

Did you complete your install of your CV 1800 with the Hand/Off/Auto switch? I'm interested in this approach so I can manually switch the CV on or switch to Auto and have a Remote control the collector. I could do the same with multiple switches, but this seems cleaner. Did you put in a bin sensor? Do you have any photos of your wiring?

Thanks,

Keith

My system has 2 wall switches set up so that one switch is hard wired to turn the unit on/off and the other switch enables the remote to operate. Turning both switches off will disable the dust collector and prevents stray RF signals from accidentally turning on the DC.

The remote control is the Ace Hardware wireless remote that was listed in the assembly instructions from about 2 years ago. I don't see it in the instructions anymore, but it is a simple 110V remote control switch similar to ones used for outdoor Christmas lights. The switch inside the remote control is a mechanical relay. You can hear it click when the remote is turned on and off.

The 2 wall switches are set up just like ordinary light switches. One switch provides power directly to the 110V coil of the ClearVue relay. The second switch provides power to the remote control unit. If the second switch is on AND the remote control switch is pressed, then the ClearVue relay gets 110V and the DC is turned on. If the second switch is off, then the remote control has no power so it cannot turn on the DC.

Steve

[krpinney]

Steve,

Yeah, 2 separate switches is what I was thinking about initially, but it just seems a little cleaner with a single 3 position rotary switch (Hand/Off/Auto). I'm considering the Shop Fox remote after reading through the forum for a while.

Keith

[oakcutter]

I'm using the Shop Fox and it worked great for 2 months, but today the DC keeps randomly shutting down on its own. Press the ON button and it starts fight back up. Bypass the Shop Fox and the DC runs fine. Sporadic, no rhyme or reason that I can see.
Tony

[Steve P]

I'm using the Shop Fox and it worked great for 2 months, but today the DC keeps randomly shutting down on its own. Press the ON button and it starts fight back up. Bypass the Shop Fox and the DC runs fine. Sporadic, no rhyme or reason that I can see.
Tony

The RF remotes are nothing special. They are a simple (i.e. cheap) system that uses a few slightly different frequencies to create multiple channels. It is easy to get interference from other RF sources nearby.

I think mine has some jumpers inside the battery compartment to select the "A", "B", or "C" channel. Try changing to another jumper to see if it stops shutting down. Both the transmitter and receiver need to be set to the same channel.

Occasional shutdowns would be annoying. An even bigger problem would be if it turns itself on and stays on for days when you are away from the shop. It would be a good idea to unplug the system when you leave the shop until the interference problem is fixed.

Steve

[McRabbet]

Occasional shutdowns would be annoying. An even bigger problem would be if it turns itself on and stays on for days when you are away from the shop. It would be a good idea to unplug the system when you leave the shop until the interference problem is fixed.

I recommend that your remote control be connected to an outlet on your shop lighting circuit so it is disabled when you shut them off -- this works as long as you don't have a shop with loads of daylight through windows or skylights. In those cases, you'll need a switch to disable the remote's power or, as Steve suggests, just unplug it (I cannot do that since my remote control receiver is in the crawl space under my shop and I rely on disabling the circuit supplying its power).

[bigjimak]

I'm taking posession of a new home in a couple of days.. 4-car heated garage with 3 for my shop so moving from my little Jet 1100 portable to a stationaty system is high on my list, as is the ability to remote my DC.

The solution I'm planning is based on the iVac Pro series of wireless DC controllers, found http://www.ivacswitch.com/default.action?itemid=50 but for sale cheaper on Amazon.

My plan is to get the 240V 20A switch model and use it to control my power relay. They sell for about $60 on Amazon. This switch has an off-on-auto build in and is programmable to keep the DC on for a set time after you turn off the tool

For the tools, they sell 20A tool (transmitter) models in 120V and 240V for about $50.

It's all wireless; just set a couple of switches, just plug your tool into the transmitter and the transmitter into the outlet. You can painlessly add tools and transmitters in the future as you get the tool or can afford the box, no wiring needed.

They also support multiple switches, so you can have one for your DC and another for central vacuum. I'm planning to pre-plumb central shopvac into my system and, with a portable "tool" model, use the one unit for my portable routers, sanders, etc.

Just another apporach.. and my $0.02...