View Full Version : What else besides the DC kit is needed?
So I'm getting close to buying a DC and am seriously considering a Clearvue. However, I want to fully calculate my budget for the project. What else will I need beyond the kit that is offered? I think I'll still need:
- 2 filters (1 works, 2 is better): 9L300BL from Wynn @ $70 each + shipping. I have gas heat so no external venting for me.
- Some form of clean-out box for the filters (is this the only other item needed for filter use)?
- Remote control or a manual switch for 5HP motor
- Plug / wiring for 5HP motor (to the wall)
- 30A, 240V single phase circuit
- Ductwork (6" S&D PVC pipe). What is used for 'Y' transitions and how does everyone stick the ductwork together? What about gradual 90° bends?
- 6" flex pipe (I need to run at least one line down from the ceiling to a movable tool). What is a good source for 6" flex tubing? Will it fit easily to the 6" S&D pipe?
- Transitions / splitters to smaller ducting (recommendations?)
Is this the complete list? I don't want to set aside a weekend for installing the DC system and find out that I'm missing some parts. Thanks!
01-25-2006, 07:22 AM
You pretty much summed it up I think. Don't forget the clamps for the flex-tube though! The same place that sells those Wynn filters (http://www.wynnenv.com/flexible_hose.htm) also sells flex-tube and clamps. Of course, a local source would probably be cheaper considering shipping cost of bulky flex-tube.
Instead of the Wynn filters you may also want to consider the Camfil-Farr (http://www.camfilfarr.com/) #125154-005 filter. These are rated at 800 cfm, and 99.6% for 1 micron particles (filter class F9 / 95% Ashrae to be exact). This is the filter Bill Pentz recommends in his articles. I just got mine in yesterday, and paid CAN$57.20 for each, that's just under US$50 each. Camfill-Farr has offices all over the US and Canada, so possibly there's one close to you, saving on shipping (they are very large filters).
Be advised that these filters are closed on one side (and have a mounting flange on the other side). It would be easy to cut a hole in the end-cap, however in my case I've decided to mount them in parallel and leave the ends closed. From comments by others I've concluded that very little dust ends up in a clean-out anyway, if there was one. So I'll forgo the clean-out altogether and simply mount both filters hanging down from a plenum box using bolts and wing-nuts. Ever once in a while I'll take the wing-nuts off, lower the filters (they're light), and use a vacuum with brush attachment to clean out the inside. The filter material is very sturdy, so no problem there. There's a gasket on the mounting-flange, making it very easy to get an air-tight seal against, say, plywood.
Just my 2ct...
01-25-2006, 07:24 AM
Forgot to add: I purchased my filters from the local Camfill-Farr office here in Ottawa. They were happy to sell to me (as a non-business entity). I picked them up from the office, so no shipping. Took only 2 days for them to come in after ordering.
So how to you attach the 6" flex tubing to the 6" S&D PVC pipe? Does it slide over or will I need some sort of converter?
Word is that it slides over 6" S&D type PVC pipe, however, I've not tried that yet. In fact, I've not located 6" flex-tube yet here in Canada. That'll be the next thing on my list.
The ClearVue boxes just arrived, found them sitting in front of my door as I came home 10 minutes ago. I still have to open them, but they look to be in good shape.
Let me add something to my previous posts: Another reason I want to mount the two filters in parallel rather than in series (besides that I'm short on ceiling space), is to use a piece of flexible fibreglass lined HVAC line between the motor and the filters. This should provide good noise dampening. I've seen this being used in other people's ClearVue installations.
01-28-2006, 04:14 PM
This is kind of long, but I've shared it with several people on a couple of the woodworking forums, thought I'd go ahead and post it here. Ed, if I have anything wrong in here, let me know and I'll amend my list.
There are just a couple things I found that I needed when assembling mine. Decide how you will mount your cyclone. Ed Morgano has good instructions on the web site if you mount it on the wall. I chose to make a separate "tree" to lessen sympathetic vibration noise, though I'm not at all sure it is necessary. Which ever way you go, you will need some lumber and lag bolts or screws or nails of appropriate length.
Get a piece of either 1.25 or 1.5" angle iron. I cut one 4 foot piece in half and mounted it to the front and rear of the cyclone mounting board. Without some extra stiffness, this board sagged 1/4" in the middle with the weight of the motor on it.
Make 6 pieces of flat steel or aluminum, to put on top of the small MDF pieces that the mounting bolts go through that ties the blower assembly to the motor mounting disc. All the hardware is there and t-nuts are already installed. I broke 2 MDF pieces during installation, I'm sure I over tightened them. This step is extra security.
6 of each: t-nuts, flat washer, lock washer, 1.5" long bolt. 1/4" bolt and t-nuts would work...I had some 5/16" already here so just used them. This is to mount the cyclone ring to the bottom of the blower housing. My blower housing had 6 evenly spaced 1/8" holes drilled about 1/4" deep on the inside of the blower housing. I used a forstner bit to drill just shy of 1/8" deep at each hole for the t-nuts to fit flush into, then clamped the cyclone donut ring in place so orientation was correct, and drilled the appropriate size hole for the bolts to go through, then drilled the appropriate size hole for the shank of the t-nut to fit into on the lower blower housing plate, just far enough for the t-nut shanks to go into. It was just about all the way through this MDF plate using the 5/16" t-nut.
You probably have some screws to attach the cyclone mounting plate to the 2 x 4 arms for whatever mounting system you decide on.
Be sure to get some wire for the motor, wire the motor before installing, then you can attach the wire to your electrical at your leisure. I failed to do that and will have to get up in a tight spot to wire the motor. It won't be fun.
Before your start, decide if you want to seal the wood. Ed says it is not necessary. I chose to do it because my shop is not heated or air conditioned and I was afraid of the MDF swelling. I'm sure my actions are overkill, but that's just me ;-)).
Depending on if you are a perfectionist or not, a tube of silicone. I sealed the outside edges of all of the joints. See last sentence of previous paragraph.
The install was very straight forward and easy. I printed the install pages off from the web site and took to the shop with me since I don't have the computer out there. Lifting the motor assembly up was a bear. The shelf on my mounting tree was designed to slide up and down so I didn't have to lift the motor up 10 feet off the ground. But I still had to get about 6 feet up to start with. It can be done by yourself, but I was extremely sore the following day, and only thought I was about to drop the motor assembly one time. Get a friend to help lift it. Your muscles will thank you for it.
Enjoy!! I can't wait to get mine running. I finished my electrical and am waiting to get it turned on.
BE SURE TO BORROW A TORQUE WRENCH FOR MOUNTING THE FAN TO THE MOTOR!! IT IS INCH POUNDS, NOT FOOT POUNDS!! It looks like Ed M. has updated the fan installation information on the install page. It appears to be clearer than what I was following. If this gives you a problem, go to this link. http://www.martinsprocket.com/install.htm It is the manufacturer's web site. Download the instructions for "Stock QD Bushings" third from the bottom.
I didn't touch on ducting. I'm not to that point yet in my system, but do plan on using the 6" S&D PVC. All of the research I have done shows that this is easier to use, durable, easy to take apart and re-configure, modifiable with heat WITH PROPER CARE, AND VENTILATION., and less expensive than the other alternatives. I hope not to have to do the bending, in fact will try my best not to. I haven't looked into the different elbows and such yet. Many people have talked about ordering the elbows and wye's from McMaster-Carr, and getting the pipe from local irrigation or farm stores. I am just starting to spend some time looking for it. Spent about 1 ½ hours yesterday, found one shop that had some pipe at 23.08 each (OUCH!!) and another didnt carry it at all. I have another place to try, but couldnt find them. I had the wrong address in my mind.
I will also have some work to do on the collection hoods. My TS (contractor style) has a cheap hood with a 2 1/2" hole for a shop vac...hardly adequate. I'll have to see about enlarging the opening. My bandsaw has a 4" port, and I may try to enlarge that also, or add a hood under the table to get what might not make it to the lower cavity. I'm building something into the wall of my shop for the future SCSM. I hope to be able to tap the port of the saw hood, and catch what is thrown out behind the saw.
Good luck with your install. Let us know how it goes. Jim
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