Wiring: Connecting the Motor

[kinghong1970]

ah, thanks for that update...

Eaton Cutler-Hammer 60 Amp 120/240-Volt 14,400-Watt Non-Fused Air Conditioning Disconnect

and install it near the electrical box... gotcha...
will post pics after next batch of installs.

[McRabbet]

Al,

Looks like Bababrown has answered all of your questions -- I was unaware of you having the CV Electrical Bix when I suggested the "whip" -- he is correct that you do not need it since you have the cable with plug provided with your unit. One recommendation I would make is to use Yellow Female Quick Connectors for the L1 and L2 wire connections to the H230B.

Your picture is prefect to allow me to describe how to interface the Bin Sensor unit you also bought for your system. I've attached a marked up version of your picture to help with the Bin Sensor wiring connections.

You will find a spare knockout in the bottom of the electrical box (between the long power cord and 120 V Outlet bushings. You need to add a 1/2" bushing for NM (non-metallic) cable there and then run a piece of 14/2 NM cable to the Bin Sensor Box and make the connections to the T9A relay per my Installation Guidelines. Strip back about 6 inches of jacket on the other end of that cable, pass it through the new bushing and secure it in place.

Next, pull the Black wire that is connected to the left side of the H230B contactor coil with a female quick connector and cut the connector off the end. Using connectors I provided, connect this Black wire to the new Black wire in the NM cable. Put some black tape around the white insulation (use to mark the wire as being a hot wire per NEC) and add a new Blue Female Connector I provide to that wire. Attach it to the Coil male connector where you removed the Black wire and you've completed the Bin Sensor interconnection.

Hope this helps.

[kinghong1970]

Ok so I had the electrician to come and check if wiring was fine..
All is well except one issue.

My home has 208V not 240...
Is this a problem or do I need to get a step up transformer?

Thanks again

Al

[bababrown]

Al,
Huh! Excuse me but I've never heard of that in a home! Is it three phase, 120/208? Or is it 120/208, 3-wire single phase? I volunteer my time as gardener up the street at the Chinese Bible church. That building has 120/208, 3-phase only. There is no 120/240 single phase. Apparently, single phase is brought in as a separate service off a separate transformer. It is possible to run most single phase 230 volt motors off 208 volts and I know this motor has been tested that way. It's not ideal but the CV-1800 isn't loaded all that heavily. If you have single phase 208 volts I would call Motor Warehouse and ask them. Maybe give Clear Vue a call too. If you have three phase then I would back up and go with a three phase motor. I feel like Inspector Clouseau standing there without a sleeve on his jacket --- I should have asked you first if that is you're dog!
bababrown

[kinghong1970]

Originally Posted by bababrown

Al,
Huh! Excuse me but I've never heard of that in a home! Is it three phase, 120/208? Or is it 120/208, 3-wire single phase? I volunteer my time as gardener up the street at the Chinese Bible church. That building has 120/208, 3-phase only. There is no 120/240 single phase. Apparently, single phase is brought in as a separate service off a separate transformer. It is possible to run most single phase 230 volt motors off 208 volts and I know this motor has been tested that way. It's not ideal but the CV-1800 isn't loaded all that heavily. If you have single phase 208 volts I would call Motor Warehouse and ask them. Maybe give Clear Vue a call too. If you have three phase then I would back up and go with a three phase motor. I feel like Inspector Clouseau standing there without a sleeve on his jacket --- I should have asked you first if that is you're dog!
bababrown

Bababrown...

i believe it is 120/208 3 phase that comes in to the home.

[bababrown]

If it is 3-phase then go with the 3-phase CV-1800 motor. They are a better motor, they start better, and they run quieter and more efficiently. In a way I wish I had that problem.
bababrown

[McRabbet]

Albert,

If you have three-phase power, then I believe that the Orange wiring to your CV Electrical box will also need to be changed to accomodate the 3 phases. You'll also need to trade out the H230B contactor in that box with a Fasco H340B or a Packard C340B Contactor. These have the same 120V coil, but are 3-pole to switch the 3 legs of 208V/3 phase power. Best deal I could find in a simple Google search was the Packard C340B on Amazon.com.

The wiring for the interconnection with the McRabbet Bin Sensor is the same as I already recommended -- the Packard contactor has a 120V coil and that coil is connected the same way as the Fasco H230B. The difference is that there are three power feed that connect to the top side of the contactor. I would strongly recommend you have your electrician check the phases of wire and verify that you need a different feed to your electrical box. Like Bababrown, I am amazed that you have 208V/3-phase in your home!

[kinghong1970]

thank you both...

so i have a "good" kind of a problem?

i guess i will have to contact clearvue to see about exchanging the motor to a 3phase motor.

i'll take a look at the links... it'll probably have to continue after i come back from vacation.

thanks again for the help.

Originally Posted by McRabbet

Albert,

If you have three-phase power, then I believe that the Orange wiring to your CV Electrical box will also need to be changed to accomodate the 3 phases. You'll also need to trade out the H230B contactor in that box with a Fasco H340B or a Packard C340B Contactor. These have the same 120V coil, but are 3-pole to switch the 3 legs of 208V/3 phase power. Best deal I could find in a simple Google search was the Packard C340B on Amazon.com.

The wiring for the interconnection with the McRabbet Bin Sensor is the same as I already recommended -- the Packard contactor has a 120V coil and that coil is connected the same way as the Fasco H230B. The difference is that there are three power feed that connect to the top side of the contactor. I would strongly recommend you have your electrician check the phases of wire and verify that you need a different feed to your electrical box. Like Bababrown, I am amazed that you have 208V/3-phase in your home!

[Fingerpicker]

I could use some advice. I got started hooking up the motor wiring using info from this thread and especially kinghong1970's helpful illustration from 07-05-2012. All is clear except that there is another yellow wire labeled P3 that is not accounted for. P1 and P3 both connect to what looks like a capacitor in the motor connection box. I see that P1 connects to L1, but what does P3 connect to?

The motor came from the factory wired for clockwise rotation and P3 is wire-nutted together with two T1 wires. I can rewire for CCW rotation, but just need to know what to do with the P3 wire.

Thanks for any assistance.

Kim Kasdorf (Fingerpicker)

[bababrown]

Fingerpicker,
You should have L1 connected to P1 and L2 connected to T4 and T8 where L1 and L2 are your two incoming wires. Then P3, T1, and T5 should be connected together. But they do not connect to any of the input wiring. The two capacitors are connected to the starter winding. That circuit can be wired two ways to determine the direction of rotation. That's why there is "extra" wiring in the box. You also should have the bare wire connected to the grounding screw in the box. The circuit diagram for the motor should be on the cover of the box. Hope this helps,
bababrown