General Installation CV1800 Advice

N

Nat Denkin

New member
I am preparing to install a cyclone bundle with the 16” blower, pre-wired control box, and bin sensor. I have been busy reading the forum and other websites trying understand all the issues. While I expect to use a licensed electrician to at least put in the 240V circuit, I do not wish to rely totally on that electrician nor on the electrical inspector that I am installing a safe and reliable system. I would appreciate some advice!

1) My biggest concern: The wall stud spacing is 16 inches. The motor mount wall brackets appear to be designed for 24” stud spacing. I thought about running several 2 by 4s across several studs with some carriage bolts captured at 24” spacing to hold the brackets. What is the best way to mount the cyclone to a wall with 16” spaced studs?

2) I was concerned about using a 3HP contactor for a 5HP rated motor especially since I am using the 16" blower. Since I have not installed the box, I decided to replace the H230B with an H360B (about $53 with shipping) and not worry about the contactor failing prematurely. I was wondering if people have had trouble with the H230B failing in normal use.

3) While a 30A circuit should be adequate for a 20.8A FLC motor, the NEC seems require #8 wire to serve 5HP motor applications since a different 5HP motor (with a full load current of 28A) could be used as a replacement. Is using #10 wires safe with 30A breakers in the panel?

4) It appears that at start up, the Leeson motor could draw 107A briefly. Do I need to require special breakers, or are the typical breakers at Home Depot or Lowe's good enough?

5) I heard that it is a good idea to run the DC for 20 minutes to clear the air of any uncollected dust. Is there a good timer switch that anyone recommends?

6) I intend to use PVC piping. Does anyone know an online supplier for an 11-1/2 degree ell for 6” S&D pipe?


Thanks for any advice! Nat
 
Nat,
I will answer these in order.
1) I used a 3/4" plywood panel to bridge the 16" studs and hold the wood brackets. I screwed the brackets on from the back of the plywood and then installed the assembly on the wall with more screws.
2) The NEC requires a HP rated as well as a current rated contactor. There has been one report of a H230B contactor failure on this forum.
3) The NEC requires #8 copper wire for a single phase 240 V 5HP motor. Most people have used #10 copper for these installs but they do not meet NEC. And the requirement is not about voltage drop; it is strictly about current draw.
4) I do not know of anyone who has had trouble starting the CV cyclones with 30 amp breakers. Normal breakers will take a lot of overcurrent for a short time. If you read article 430 of the NEC you will note that the motor overload protector is what provides the overload protection not the circuit breaker.
5) ? I'll think about it.
6) I have used 22.5 degree ells but i have not seen 11.25 ells. I used a rubber coupling for a small angle correction and others have used a short section of flex hose. I hope this helps and good luck.
bababrown
 
Hi Nat,

1) I built my own wall mount bracket using two 4' horizontal 2x4s that sit flat against the wall. It allows me to hit the studs wherever they happen to be. I have not had any issues with sag.

2) The supplied relay should be fine. Buy a spare if you are worried and can't tolerate any downtime. If it is a hobby shop, you can have a replacement shipped in 2 days if it fails (which probably won't happen).

3) I believe 10ga wire is standard. Even though the CV is using a 5hp motor, the blower is using less than 5hp of power and the current draw will be slightly lower.

4) I would guess that most people use HD/Lowes breakers without issue. I use them.

5) An overhead air filter should do a much better job of filtering the air. Most of them have timers and use significantly less electricity than the CV. They are also quieter.

6) No idea. I made a 22.5 degree fitting by cutting some pipe at 11.25 degrees and gluing them back together after rotating 180 degrees. I added some short straps of PVC across the seam with glue and screws. It seems to be holding. A 11.5 degree "bend" can often be achieved by taking advantage of the natural slop across a few fittings. If you are really worried, you can sand away the top part of the pipe and the bottom part of the fitting so they fit together at 11.5 degrees. It doesn't have to be a perfect fit. Add a bit of sealant and it will be fine.

Steve
 
Thanks for the prompt responses!

Thanks for the prompt responses!

Thanks for all your advice and quick response!

I have some 18mm Baltic Birch (left over from some speakers I built) that be just right for the motor mount.

I will have to think about using a separate air filter. I do not worry much about the cost of electricity since we have solar panels that provide more power than we have been using (about 17MWH each year).

While I suppose that flexible tubing makes a lot of sense for and 11.5 degree bend, cutting a pipe at 5.75 degrees to make an ell might be worth a try.
 
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